Evigrade evidence base for cosmetic ingredients. Efficacy is evaluated separately for each route: topical, injectable, and oral
Solvent and preservative booster. Helps reduce the dose of classic preservatives in the formula and slightly retains skin moisture
A diol – solvent and humectant, milder than propylene glycol. Close in properties to butylene glycol. Pregnancy-safe
1,8-octanediol – mild preservative booster, relative of caprylyl glycol. Supports the preservative system, hydrating
A fatty acid. It softens skin and supports product texture. Well tolerated
A fatty acid found in royal jelly. The maker links it to soothing and barrier support; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
A multifunctional glycol. It hydrates and boosts preservative action. Well tolerated
A patented brightening ingredient from La Roche-Posay (Mela B3 line). It targets hyperpigmentation by interfering with melanin transfer. The maker shows effect in its own trials; independent data are still limited
Stable vitamin C derivative. Better pH stability than L-ascorbic acid; penetrates skin and converts to the active form. Antioxidant and brightening effect
An older UVB filter with animal-study data pointing to endocrine activity. The SCCS reassessed its safety and the EU lowered the permitted concentration. Modern filters such as Tinosorb and DHHB are the better choice
A component of essential oils, including tea tree. It adds scent and a mild soothing effect; some people may develop allergy
A brightening active. It inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme and helps even tone in hyperpigmentation. Well tolerated at cosmetic levels
Tyrosinase and TRP-1 inhibitor, known as Rucinol. Works on both melanin synthesis steps, so it delivers stronger depigmentation
A blend of plant triglycerides. It softens skin and gives a soft texture without a heavy film. Well tolerated
Non-ionic surfactant / emulsifier. Functional formulation ingredient with no standalone activity on the skin
A nonionic surfactant and solubilizer. It dissolves oils and fragrances in the water phase and aids cleansing. Well tolerated
An oil-soluble derivative of hyaluronic acid. It retains moisture and supports skin smoothness. Well tolerated
Lactic acid ester; light non-occlusive emollient. Functional formulation ingredient with no standalone activity on the skin
Ethoxylated C12-13 fatty alcohol – a nonionic co-emulsifier. Pregnancy-safe
Light synthetic emollient with a silky texture. Gives skin soft slip without a greasy film and does not clog pores
A waxy triglyceride emollient. It softens skin and gives the formula body. Well tolerated
A plant-based nonionic co-emulsifier. Complements C14-22 Alcohols in natural emulsions. Suitable for sensitive skin, pregnancy-safe
A film-forming polymer. It boosts water and sweat resistance, common in sunscreens to help filters stay on skin. Inert
A light hydrocarbon emollient. It gives a dry non-greasy slip, absorbs fast and is non-tacky. Well tolerated and does not feed Malassezia (a hydrocarbon, not an ester)
A light hydrocarbon emollient and solvent. It gives a dry slip and helps activate thickeners. Well tolerated
Lightweight plant-derived emollient from sugarcane or palm oil. Substitutes silicones and cyclomethicone – gives a dry, slippery feel without a film. Common near the top of INCI lists in sunscreens and lightweight creams. Non-comedogenic and pregnancy-safe
A light solvent and emollient. It gives a dry slip and helps spread the product. Well tolerated
Mixture of C14-C22 fatty alcohols – a structurant and co-emulsifier. Unrelated to ethyl alcohol, does not dry skin. Pregnancy-safe
A light plant-derived emollient (an alternative to silicones and mineral oil). It softens, gives a dry slip and absorbs quickly. Well tolerated
A waxy emollient ester. It softens skin and gives the formula body and shine. Well tolerated
A waxy emollient triglyceride. It softens skin and gives the formula body. Well tolerated
A fatty-phosphate emulsifier. It blends oil and water and keeps cream uniform. Well tolerated
Long-chain fatty alcohols. They thicken, soften and stabilize cream without drying. Well tolerated
A non-ionic emulsifier. It stabilizes the formula and helps blend the oil and water phases. Well tolerated
A silicone wax. It structures sticks and creams, holds a water-resistant film and helps SPF stay on. Inert to skin
A silicone structurant. It thickens the oil phase and stabilizes texture. Well tolerated
A waxy silicone. It gives a water-resistant film and dense texture, common in sticks and SPF. Well tolerated
A waxy structurant. It thickens the oil phase and holds a stick in shape. Well tolerated
A light plant-based emollient and solvent. It gives a dry slip, absorbs fast and replaces volatile silicones. Well tolerated
A cosmetic violet colorant. It tints the product and does not affect skin in the finished formula
A cosmetic colorant (green). It tints the product and has no skin action. Permitted under EU rules, safe at cosmetic amounts
Synthetic green anthraquinone dye. It colors the product and gives no skin effect. Allowed in cosmetics in the EU, with regulatory limits on where it may be used. Pregnancy-safe, with rare contact allergy possible
Red mineral pigment based on iron oxide. Gives warm tones in foundations, lipsticks and blushes
Yellow mineral pigment based on iron oxide. Builds base yellow and beige tones in decorative cosmetics
Black mineral pigment based on iron oxide. Delivers deep dark tones in mascaras and eyeliners
Lysate of a skin commensal bacterium studied as a skin-microbiome probiotic; clinical data preliminary
Synthetic fragrance ingredient with a lily-of-the-valley scent. Banned in EU cosmetics since August 2021 due to high sensitization
Water-soluble antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase and stimulates collagen synthesis. Unstable upon oxidation, requiring careful storage
Amino sugar, a precursor of hyaluronic acid. Inhibits tyrosinase, so it lightens post-acne marks and melasma, especially when paired with niacinamide. Also supports skin HA synthesis
A derivative of the dipeptide carnosine. An antioxidant that supports skin defense against oxidative stress. Well tolerated
An iron chelator. The maker links it to reduced dark circles via iron binding; independent data are limited. Well tolerated
Silicone with PCA group attached; softer than classic dimethicones. Functional formulation ingredient with no standalone activity on the skin
A nonionic emulsifier from isostearic acid. It blends oil with water and stabilizes the formula. Well tolerated
Mid-weight polyethylene glycol – a solvent and humectant. Pregnancy-safe
Water-soluble silicone surfactant-emulsifier. Stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions and provides soft slip on skin
An emulsifier and co-surfactant. It blends oil with water and softens the main surfactants. Well tolerated
A nonionic emulsifier from glycerin and isostearic acid. It blends oil with water and softens skin. Well tolerated
Nonionic PEG emulsifier and thickener for cleansers. Softens anionic surfactants and makes foam denser and creamier
An emulsifier and co-surfactant. It blends oil with water and adds smoothness to the formula. Well tolerated
Mild nonionic co-surfactant and refatting agent in cleansers. Reduces the degreasing effect of primary surfactants and restores skin comfort after washing
Mid-weight polyethylene glycol – a humectant solvent and solubilizer. Helps blend water- and oil-soluble components and softens the texture. Pregnancy-safe
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